Blocking Pins

Dario Quintavalle
2 days ago
2 min read

Updated: 2 days ago

In traditional millinery, the tools and techniques used for blocking felt can make a significant difference to both the final result and the time required to complete the work. In this post, I would like to share my experience with a particular type of blocking pin used to secure felt on wooden hat blocks.

I began learning millinery in Italy in the mid-1980s. The method I was taught involved the use of rattan cane and fine blocking pins that are hammered in and bent. Of course, there are other ways of blocking felt and straw, using weights and tippers.

Rattan cane is a flexible material, like the kind used for basket-making. However, it tends to wear out after being used a few times and can be difficult to source. I replaced it with strips of felt, achieving a similar result.

The pins are made of iron rather than steel and are approximately 2 cm long and 1 mm thick. They were once produced specifically for milliners, but these specialised pins are no longer available. I still remember a hardware shop in Prato, one of Italy’s most famous hat-making centres near Florence, where I bought the last two boxes.

“Two kilos of pins are a lot,” they told me, “But these are the last ones left.” They explained that the machine used to produce them had broken down and would not be repaired, as demand had disappeared.

Because they are flexible, the pins can be straightened and reused. I used them for many years, but once my supply ran out, I could only find thicker alternatives, which are not suitable, as they risk damaging the wooden blocks. More recently, thanks to one of my students, I discovered a very effective type of pin, like those used by picture framers. I have included some photos with this post.

In the UK, plastic-headed pins and upholstery tacks are more commonly used and are quicker to apply. However, they are less effective, as more are needed, and they can be impractical when stretching and blocking felt and straw, especially when working on the underside of a fascinator block. The choice of tools reflects both tradition and the practical adaptations each milliner develops over time.